{"id":256776,"date":"2019-09-12T07:00:20","date_gmt":"2019-09-12T10:00:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/?p=256776"},"modified":"2019-09-13T21:16:58","modified_gmt":"2019-09-14T00:16:58","slug":"in-homs-and-palmyra-life-after-the-destruction","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/in-homs-and-palmyra-life-after-the-destruction\/","title":{"rendered":"In Homs and Palmyra, life after the destruction"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Homs, Syria \u2013 Homs is Syria\u2019s third biggest city, following Aleppo and Damascus. Located some 170 km north of the capital, it has long had crucial economic, geographic and strategic relevance. It sits halfway through the two biggest metropolises, in a predominantly agricultural area near the Orontes River, on the east end of the only natural connection between the country\u2019s heartland and the Mediterranean \u2013 the passageway between mountains known as <em>Homs Gap<\/em> or <em>Gateway to Syria<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s been a significant trade hub since Antiquity, at which point it was known as Emesa, and it was <a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/brazilian-researcher-looks-into-the-syrian-emperor-of-rome\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">the birthplace of two Roman emperors<\/a>. An industrial hub prior to the war that began in 2011. Homs is the subject of ANBA\u2019s third special report on Syria.<\/p>\n<p>The agency visited the city on August 30 with a group of journalists from various countries, at the invitation of Syria\u2019s Ministry of Tourism. Homs was a major stronghold for the armed insurgency against the regime during wartime, especially from 2011 to 2015. <a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/a-1200-kilometer-journey-through-syria\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Unlike Damascus<\/a>, where the fighting happened mostly in the suburbs, here it took place in the downtown areas, which are currently controlled by the government.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_256737\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-256737\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_Nic6335387.jpg\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-256737 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_Nic6335387-300x202.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"202\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_Nic6335387-300x202.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_Nic6335387-768x517.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_Nic6335387.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-256737\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The mosque, pre-restoration<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>One of Homs\u2019 landmarks is the Khalid Ibn Al-Walid Mosque (<em>pictured at<\/em> <em>the top of this story<\/em>), built in the early 20<sup>th<\/sup> century in honor of the eponymous Arab general who used the be a companion of prophet Muhammad. Also known as <em>Sword of God<\/em>, Khalid Ibn Al-Walid secured the conquest of Syria by Arab Muslims in the Battle of Yarmouk, in 636 AD., with the defeat of the Byzantine army. He died in Homs in 642 AD., and his grave is within the mosque.<\/p>\n<p>The temple sustained severe damage during recent fighting but has been completely restored. The surrounding Khalidiya neighborhood and other downtown areas in Homs, on the other hand, are still in ruins.<\/p>\n<p>Homs\u2019 Department of Religious Affairs chief, sheikh Issam Al-Masri, said the place has been a Muslim pilgrimage site since the Middle Age. Although the mosque is relatively new, older buildings have been erected around Khalid Ibn Al-Walid\u2019s mausoleum throughout the centuries, and later demolished to make room for new projects. \u201cThis is where the people of Homs have their celebrations,\u201d said Masri in an interview inside the mosque.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_256727\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-256727\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs3.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-256727 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs3-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs3.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-256727\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u201cAt first there were no weapons, but they began cropping up fast\u201d<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>He explained that the uprising here began with anti-regime demonstrations in 2011. \u201cAt first there were no weapons, but they began cropping up fast, lots of heavy weaponry,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>The sheikh recalled the distress and grief as armed groups seized portions of the city. He said he joined talks to persuade these groups to leave Homs. \u201cYes, of course I joined, because I\u2019m chief of the Department of Religious Affairs,\u201d he argued. \u201cSome of them accepted [an agreement] and some didn\u2019t. The ones that accepted are still here; the others got driven out,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>The body count in Homs was high. The UN estimates some 400,000 were killed in all of Syria during the war. \u201cSomeone got killed or wounded in virtually every family in Syria and in Homs,\u201d said Masri.<\/p>\n<p><em>(Story continues after photo gallery)<\/em><\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-256776 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-medium'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs5.jpg'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs5-225x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256711\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-256711\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs5-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs5-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs5.jpg 1224w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-256711'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Khalid Ibn Al-Walid mausoleum today\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/068_AA_26072013_113.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"217\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/068_AA_26072013_113-300x217.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256714\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-256714\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/068_AA_26072013_113-300x217.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/068_AA_26072013_113-768x555.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/068_AA_26072013_113.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-256714'>\n\t\t\t\tThe tomb, pre-reconstruction\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs6.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs6-300x225.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256726\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-256726\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs6-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs6-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs6-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs6.jpg 1633w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-256726'>\n\t\t\t\tThe prayer room, restored\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs-1.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs-1-300x225.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256717\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-256717\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs-1.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-256717'>\n\t\t\t\tRuined buildings in the Khalidiya neighborhood\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs9.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs9-300x225.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256720\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-256720\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs9-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs9-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs9-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs9.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-256720'>\n\t\t\t\tOther buildings in the same area\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs10.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs10-300x225.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256723\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-256723\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs10-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs10-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs10-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/homs10.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-256723'>\n\t\t\t\tDamaged buildings near the mosque\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><strong>Brazilian<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>A Brazilian who lives in Homs, Renata Issa reminisced on the predicament of being caught in the middle of the fighting. A daughter to Syrian parents born in Curitiba, Paran\u00e1, she decided to move to Syria in early 2011 with her husband \u2013 a Syrian engineer from Homs \u2013 and their two children. \u201cHe wanted to return to his homeland, and we wanted to raise the kids in a safer place where crime wasn\u2019t as rampant [as in Brazil],\u201d she said. At that point, the war was yet to begin. \u201cThe Arab Spring protests were going on, but we couldn\u2019t tell what was going to happen, or how far it would go,\u201d she went on.<\/p>\n<p>When the crisis began, the couple was unsure whether to return to Brazil or not. \u201cI had sold my practice and ended my activities in Brazil, so we decided to wait,\u201d said Issa, who\u2019s a dentist. She said her neighborhood in Homs wasn\u2019t directly hit, but as things took a turn for the worse, there were explosions near her home, people got killed, and she could see soldiers firing from a nearby rooftop towards downtown.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt was scary, the noise, the bombs, I wanted to pack up and go back to Brazil,\u201d she said. The family decided to move into the village where Issa\u2019s in-laws, in the Tartus area along the Mediterranean coast. \u201cMany families moved into that area. Everyone that could, did,\u201d Issa explained. They were there for a year and a half. \u201cUntil things cooled off,\u201d she said. Now, the family is back in Homs, where she has her own practice.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Palmyra<\/strong><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_256730\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-256730\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-256730 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada-300x220.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"220\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada-300x220.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada-768x563.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada-1024x750.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada.jpg 1651w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-256730\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A checkpoint along the road and a poster of Bashar Al-Assad with allied leaders<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>ANBA and the other journalists left Homs\u00a0for Palmyra, the archaeological jewel of Syria, 164 km east of the metropolis. Along the way was the strongest military presence of our entire stay in Syria, including checkpoints and camps on both sides of the road.<\/p>\n<p>The oldest references to Palmyra date from the 19<sup>th<\/sup> century BC. The name, however, was given by the Romans, who conquered the city in the 1<sup>st<\/sup> century AD., under emperor Tiberius, and means <em>City of Palms<\/em>. The original name, Tadmor, is employed until this day, and it also designates the modern city that\u2019s been built next to the ruins.<\/p>\n<p>Palmyra was a highly relevant city in ancient times, since it sat on an oasis along the main East-West caravan route. One of its best-known figures is queen Zenobia, who rose to power around 268 BC, conquered most of Asia Minor and declared the independence of Rome. Afterwards, emperor Aurelian (270-275 AD) regained control.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_256733\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-256733\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tadmor.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-256733 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tadmor-300x201.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"201\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tadmor-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tadmor-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tadmor-1024x687.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tadmor.jpg 1726w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-256733\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The modern Tadmor, adjoining the ruins of Palmyra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The ruins of Palmyra and the modern city of Tadmor were invaded by the self-proclaimed Islamic State in 2015. Before being driven out in 2016 by the Syrian army and its allies, the group dynamited many of the monuments, including the Arch of Triumph \u2013 the gateway to the city\u2019s main colonnade \u2013 and part of the amphitheater. In 2013, Palmyra got listed as World Heritage in Danger by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (<a href=\"https:\/\/whc.unesco.org\/en\/list\/23\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">UNESCO<\/a>).<\/p>\n<p>The group of media professionals arrived at the historical site under a majestic sunset. The place was full of people, families, young people and children. The Homs Orchestra was slated to perform in the ancient amphitheater that night.<\/p>\n<p><em>(Story continues after photo gallery)<\/em><\/p>\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-256776 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-medium'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada2-300x225.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256742\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-256742\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/estrada2.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-256742'>\n\t\t\t\tArrival in Palmyra under the sunset\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/043_MC_ASYRIA050029.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"184\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/043_MC_ASYRIA050029-300x184.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256745\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-256745\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/043_MC_ASYRIA050029-300x184.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/043_MC_ASYRIA050029-768x472.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/043_MC_ASYRIA050029.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-256745'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Arch of Triumph before it was blown up\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira-1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira-1-300x225.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256748\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-256748\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira-1.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-256748'>\n\t\t\t\tThe same site now\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_MB1NJ.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_MB1NJ-300x225.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256751\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-256751\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_MB1NJ-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_MB1NJ-768x575.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/000_MB1NJ.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-256751'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Palmyra Amphitheater, then and now\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira5.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira5-300x225.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium size-medium wp-image-256754\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-256754\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira5-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira5-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira5-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira5.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-256754'>\n\t\t\t\tA view of Palmyra today\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Young people taking selfies amid the landmarks soon became interested in the foreign journalists and started conversations. In Syria \u2013 and in the Arab world at large \u2013 people are usually hospitable, and quick to chat.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_256755\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-256755\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-256755 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira2-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira2.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-256755\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Young people get ready to step into the arena<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Two of them said they live in the modern Tadmor but fled to Homs with their families when the terrorists arrived. One of them, now aged 16, was only eight when the war began.<\/p>\n<p>There was fighting in Tadmor, and the damage is apparent. The place seems uninhabited, and the historical site in Palmyra was closed to visitors \u2013 an exception was made that night because of the concert. People came from other cities to watch.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_256760\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-256760\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira3.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-256760 size-medium\" src=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira3-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/anba.com.br\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/palmira3.jpg 1632w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-256760\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A concert by the Homs Orchestra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The crowd took to the stands bearing Syrian flags and other national symbols. The orchestra performed with singers in front of the original stage, whose pediment was destroyed (watch the video at the end of this story). In the background, a portrait of president Bashar Al Assad, where Zenobia used to rule.<\/p>\n<p>One of the guides escorting the journalists said with a touch of nostalgia that in the eight years leading up to the war, he\u2019d bring tourists to Palmyra every Tuesday without fail. That wasn\u2019t the case in the eight years that followed.<\/p>\n<p>The concert ended, but the night was far from over. <a href=\"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/medieval-fortress-used-again-in-21st-century\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Read all about it in ANBA\u2019s fourth report on Syria this Friday (13)<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>*ANBA traveled at the invitation of Syria\u2019s Ministry of Tourism. Translated by Gabriel Pomerancblum<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><iframe title=\"Orquestra de Homs se apresenta no anfiteatro de Palmira, na S\u00edria\" width=\"755\" height=\"425\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/htJ-X0WcqHw?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<div class=\"credits-overlay\" data-target=\".wp-image-256707\">Alexandre Rocha\/ANBA<\/div>\n<div class=\"credits-overlay\" data-target=\".wp-image-256737\">Joseph Eid\/AFP<\/div>\n<div class=\"credits-overlay\" data-target=\".wp-image-256727\">Alexandre Rocha\/ANBA<\/div>\n<div class=\"credits-overlay\" data-target=\".wp-image-256730\">Alexandre Rocha\/ANBA<\/div>\n<div class=\"credits-overlay\" data-target=\".wp-image-256733\">Alexandre Rocha\/ANBA<\/div>\n<div class=\"credits-overlay\" data-target=\".wp-image-256755\">Alexandre Rocha\/ANBA<\/div>\n<div class=\"credits-overlay\" data-target=\".wp-image-256760\">Alexandre Rocha\/ANBA<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In its third special report on Syria, ANBA recounts a visit to the city that was full of armed groups during the war that broke out in 2011, and to one of the country\u2019s main archaeological sites \u2013 damaged, but still impressive.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1454,"featured_media":256707,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[92],"tags":[11254,11252,11255,11233,11256,11253,11257,9611,11258,9692,10992],"class_list":{"0":"post-256776","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-special-reports","8":"tag-homs-en","9":"tag-islamic-state","10":"tag-issam-al-masri-en","11":"tag-issam-al-masri","12":"tag-khalid-ibn-al-walid-en","13":"tag-palymra","14":"tag-renata-issa-en","15":"tag-syria-en","16":"tag-tadmor-en","17":"tag-tourism-en","18":"tag-war"},"wps_subtitle":"In its third special report on Syria, ANBA recounts a visit to the city that was full of armed groups during the war that broke out in 2011, and to one of the country\u2019s main archaeological sites \u2013 damaged, but still impressive.","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/256776","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1454"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=256776"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/256776\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/256707"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=256776"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=256776"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anba.com.br\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=256776"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}