São Paulo – The main metropolis in Brazil is an Arab city. The main destination of immigrants coming to the country in the late 19th Century, São Paulo brings in its streets, habits, culture, architecture, gastronomy, economics and even health services the mark of the people of the Middle East who established themselves here. All you have to do is observe the area around you. There will at least be a snack bar offering safihas and kibbehs.
To learn more about the presence of the Arab nations in the city of São Paulo, and to celebrate March 25th, the National Arab Community Day, how about a route involving some of the highlights of each region?
In the centre of the city, where the heart of the community beats stronger, it helped set the date for celebration of the society. Receiving the first immigrants from Syria and Lebanon, the region became the main hub for low-income trade in the country.
March 25th street attracts consumers from all over the country due to its dry goods, fabric, accessories and household appliance shops that sell everything under the sun. A sales machine that generates 10 billion Brazilian reals (US$ 6 billion) a year with its 3,000 companies. According to the Union of Retailers of 25th March Street and Surrounding Areas (Univinco), 40% of the enterprises have Arab accents.
"The Centre is surely the most Arab region of São Paulo," explained Univinco director and businessman Marcelo Mouawad, who is heading the Semaan shops alongside his father, Semaan Mouawad. "The 25th has become what it is due to the entrepreneurs in the community that are always concerned with closely following their companies and serving their clients well," he said. "We have a millenary culture of talent for trade."
Originally from São Paulo and proud of his origins, Mouawad lovingly recalls the trajectory of his forefathers. And he explains that it was his grandfather, Halim Ghazal Mouawad, who decided to come to Brazil in 1947, with his wife, Badra Maatouk Mouawad, and their kids. "They were a family of Arab heroes who found in Brazil a warm land in which to raise their children in peace," he says.
A little further on, as short ten minute walk away, in the city’s so-called Cereal Zone, Tio Ali Empório offers many articles imported from the Arab nations, mainly Lebanon. Visit it if you want to load up on chickpeas, tahini, zaatar, rose water and halawi (sesame seed sweet), among other spices. "I supply clients of all origins here," explained João Baptista Ramos Júnior, the company owner.
Born in Paraná, the businessman explains that he learns by trading with Arab suppliers. And he celebrates the fact that, in any part of São Paulo, he may find a restaurant to have a safiha or kibbeh at. "I love Arab gastronomy. I always take pita bread and shanklish home," he said (view stretches on the interviews with tradesmen below).
Before leaving the central region, keep in mind that it houses other marks of Arab presence, like the Syrian-Lebanese Hospital, in Bela Vista, and Brazil Mosque, on Estado Avenue.
Paradise of cuisine
After the centre, the South of the city is the one with the greatest references to the trajectory of immigrants in Brazil. There are, for example, many street names, like Republic of Lebanon Avenue, Syrian-Arab Republic Viaduct and Republic of Iraq Avenue. The capital of Iraq, in fact, was also honoured, but in the East Zone, in São Miguel Paulista. In the City Hall registry, Baghdad Street has existed since 1978.
Back to the South, the highlight is to the Syrian Orthodox Cathedral and to the Nossa Senhora do Paraíso Melkite Greek Catholic Church, both in Paraíso, a neighbourhood also renowned for the concentration of restaurants specialized in Arab delicacies.
Tenda do Nilo, on Coronel Oscar Porto Street, is one. Managing the pans alongside sister Xmune, Olinda Isper confirms the great number of good restaurants in the region. But clients are from all over. "Arab food is very well accepted in São Paulo," said Olinda. "I would say that it is in the second place in acceptance, losing only to the Italian," she finished off.
Regarding good cuisine, leaving the Southern Zone, the Northern Zone houses one of the most famous themed night clubs in the city of São Paulo: Alibabar. Apart from a menu including dishes like kafta, raw kibbeh and falafel (chickpea cakes), the house also promotes shows like belly dancing and dabke (folk dance) to please the audience. It closes the Arab tour of the most Arab city in Brazil.
Route
Semaan Brinquedos
Rua Cavaleiro Basílio Jafet 138, Centro
Tel.: (11) 3228-0504
Site: www.semaanbrinquedos.com.br
Tio Ali
Rua Santa Rosa 60/62, Centro
Tel.: (11) 3228-7138
Syrian Orthodox Cathedral
Rua Vergueiro 1515, Paraíso
Nossa Senhora do Paraíso Melkite Greek Catholic Church
Rua Paraíso 21, Paraíso
Tenda do Nilo
Rua Coronel Oscar Porto 638
Tel.: (11) 3885-0460
Alibabar
Av. Luiz Dumont Vilares 697, Santana
Tel.: (11) 2281-7845
*Translated by Mark Ament
