São Paulo – Here, time is different. It passes slower, fortunately. This way, you can better appreciate the landscape with a view of the river. The river, by the way, is the São Francisco, which after crossing four other states and covering 2,700 kilometres, is closer to meeting the Atlantic once it gets to Penedo, in the state of Alagoas. Located 162 kilometres away from the capital, Maceió, Penedo lies in the far south of the state. The most charming city in the interior of Alagoas, it is home to treasures such as baroque art-filled churches, convents and small palaces from the 17th and 18th centuries. The city has many a story to tell, such as the fact that it was invaded by the Dutch in 1645 and retrieved by the Portuguese later in that same year.
Considering that the city has so many attractions, a precious tip before starting your tour of Penedo: the most interesting thing there is to just feel the vibe of the city, which was built by the banks of the São Francisco. Pay attention to the two-storey houses facing the river’s sweet, green water, beautiful with their enormous porches, which may be seen along streets such as Fernandes de Barros, for instance.
It is worth it to explore spots such as the Casa do Penedo Foundation and the Paço Imperial Museum, preferably in the company of a travel guide, so you do not miss any details. The Casa brings together documents and objects that tell the story of the municipality, such as costumes that belonged to old bishops and clothes worn by Emperor D. Pedro II when he visited the city, in 1859. The Paço Imperial Museum has a similar collection, with a very special extra feature: it is located in one of the region’s most beautiful two-storey houses. Use your camera in the upper floor, in front of old wooden windows dating back to the 18th century, facing Velho Chico ( São Francisco River’s nickname, meaning old Francisco). It was there, at the villa with a colonial facade in which the Lemos family used to live, that Emperor D. Pedro II stayed.
Churches? "The Correntes and Nossa Senhora dos Anjos churches are the two most visited," explains the director of Research at the Penedo Culture and Tourism Secretariat, Marcelly Delgado. A native of Penedo who is proud of her hometown, she claims that at the time of the abolitionist movement, slaves would use the church of Nossa Senhora das Correntes as a hideout. To the left of the altar, there used to be a secret passage in which they would stay until they got a forged letter of freedom and escaped to Quilombo dos Palmares (a famous escaped slave community), also in Alagoas. The site is decorated with Portuguese facing and has a baroque facade. The Nossa Senhora dos Anjos church, in turn, which is also baroque, is located within the São Francisco Convent and features golden paintings in the altar, and a pulpit adorned with golden patina.
While we are in the realm of faith, it is worth mentioning Oratório dos Condenados ( Oratory of the Condemned), where prisoners would pray before they were hanged. The tourist spot is located at the Barão de Penedo Square, in the centre of the city.
Going from sacred to profane, do not leave before you visit the Sete de Setembro Theatre, Alagoas’ first, inaugurated in 1884. The locals take pride in the fact that it operates until this day. "Penedo breathes history," says Marcelly.
Freshwater shrimp and Tilapia fish
Pause for lunch? No restaurant in Penedo is more traditional than Forte da Rocheira. Located in an old fort, the establishment attracts tourists from all over Brazil, especially São Paulo, and foreigners such as North Americans, Portuguese and Italians. "The Arabs are also welcome," explains partner/owner Flávio de Mello Santos.
According to Santos, the flagship of the menu is "Tilapia fillet a la rocheira," i.e., breaded and covered in white wine sauce. The Tilapia is a flavourful local fish. Another best-selling dish is Pitu, a large freshwater shrimp easily found in the region. For dessert, order delícia de abacaxi (pineapple delight), a sweet prepared with milk cream, condensed milk and pieces of the fruit. Eat fast, so as to enjoy every moment of your visit to Penedo. And, of course, relax while seeing the landscape, which, once again, has a view of the river.
Service
Penedo Culture and Tourism Secretariat:
(+55 82) 35513907
Casa do Penedo Foundation:
(+55 82) 35512008
Paço Imperial Museum:
(+55 82) 35512493
São Francisco Convent:
(+55 82) 35512279
Forte da Rocheira Restaurant:
(+55 82) 35513273
Lodging:
São Francisco Hotel:
Daily rates from 100 to 212 reals (US$ 57 to US$ 122). Phone: (+55 82) 35512273. Site: http://www.hotelsaofrancisco.tur.br/
Pousada Colonial:
Daily rates from 100 to 160 reals (US$ US$ 57 to US$ 92). Phone: (+55 82) 35512355
*Translated by Gabriel Pomerancblum
