Damascus – Damascus, the capital of Syria, is considered one of the oldest constantly inhabited cities in the world. There is archaeological evidence of occupation since the fourth millennium before Christ, according to information in the Encyclopaedia Britannica. Over these thousands of years, several civilizations established themselves here, from Aramaeans to Romans, Byzanthians and Arabs- who occupied the region in the 7th century of the Christian Era -, Ottomans, Europeans and, finally, the current Syrians.
All these peoples, and others, left marks of their passage that may be seen to date. Many ancient monuments are not just tourist attractions, but constructions used daily by the local population. The Old City, the historic centre of the capital, brings together a good part of these beacons and, despite the name, is full of life.
Ancient Damascus is marked by the ruins of walls built during the Roman Empire. The city has seven gates, which are still there, and make way into a labyrinth of narrow alleys. It is the kind of place in which it is easy to get lost, and where turning a corner may reveal a great surprise: a Roman arch, an ancient church, a historic mosque or an Ottoman palace.
The Old City has a beat. There, you find the most traditional markets, or "souqs", in the capital, the most charming restaurants, cafés and hotels, as well as private homes. The homes, simple from the outside, are large inside, often including beautiful open-air patios. The place is lively by day and by night.
One of the most popular passages for those visiting Damascus starts by entering the Old City through Al-Hamidiyeh Souq, a large covered market, full of shops that sell all kinds of products, like clothes, fabric, jewellery, handicraft and souvenirs.
Do not forget to try the traditional pistachio ice cream sold there. It, in truth, is really a vanilla ice cream that the salesman sticks into a container full of ground pistachio. Another delicacy of the streets of Damascus is the falafel rolled in bread with sauce, tomatoes, pickles and, if it is to the liking of the client, chillies. This is a good option for a fast snack.
Meeting of civilisations
The souq follows a practically straight line up to the wall of Umayyad Mosque, built in the eight century a.d. during the Umayyad Caliphate, when Damascus was the capital of the Arab-Muslim empire. The architectural work of art is, in itself, a summary of the history of the city. It was erected where there was originally a temple of the Aramaeans, dedicated to god Hadad, later transformed by the Romans into a temple to Jupiter.
In the Byzantine period, the site was transformed into St. John Baptist Church, prior to the construction of the mosque, between 705 and 715 a.d. Roman columns and arches from the temple of Jupiter are still standing in the area that separates the exit of the souq and the entrance of the mosque.
The imposing construction, which includes a beautiful internal patio, is a site of adoration by Christians and Sunni and Xiite Muslims. Within the ample prayer hall there is the grave of St. John Baptist who, according to the Christian tradition, baptized Jesus. It is believed that the head of the saint, praised by the Muslims as prophet Yahya, is buried there. In 2001, Pope John Paul II went to the site in what was the first visit of a Pope to a mosque.
On the other side of the mosque, opposite the entrance, another hall contains relics, where it is believed that the head of Hussein, son of Ali and grandson of Mohammed, is buried. It is a site of Xiite adoration. To the Xiites, Hussein is considered the third Imam and a martyr. A point of visitation by pious Iranians, it is possible to see people flooded with emotion in front of the small metal chapel.
The outer part of the mosque, leading into the patio, is decorated with designs that represent scenes from nature. It is possible to see several drawings, although many have been erased. There are three minarets, with the tallest named Jesus Minaret. Jesus is also praised as a prophet by the Muslims. According to the local tradition, it is there that Christ should appear on Judgement Day.
Outside the mosque, but close to its walls, is the tomb of Arab hero Saladin, who led the Muslims against the Crusaders. It was he who returned Jerusalem to the Arabs and who defeated the army of British king Richard the Lionheart, in the Third Crusade.
In the area surrounding the mosque is another historic construction that calls attention. It is Azem palace, built in the mid 18th century a.d. by the governor of Damascus, Asaad Pasha Al-Azem, and considered a classic example of local architecture.
In excellent state of conservation, the palace is now a museum, and its halls, with mannequins, furniture and utensils, show what life was like at the time, when Syria was part of the Ottoman Empire.
The Old City also has other historic attractions like ancient housing (khans), currently occupied by shops surrounding the souqs, public baths, schools (madrassas), as well, of course, as many mosques and churches.
Outside the walls, among the hills
Outside the walls, Damascus is a metropolis with over 1.6 million inhabitants and growing. In the limits of the city there are residential neighbourhoods that are brand new or under construction. It is surrounded by hills, the most famous of which is Mount Qassioun, a meeting place for dating couples. From the peak there is a beautiful view of the capital.
Even amists the chaotic traffic, the bustling trade and the people, it is possible to find important historic beacons. This is the case with Sulaymaniyyah mosque and madrassa, built in 1566 a.d. by sultan Suleiman Al-Qanoui. It is a beautiful example of Ottoman architecture, currently restored with the support of the government of Turkey. The site houses an art and handicraft market that is open to the public in general.
In the area surrounding Damascus, there are small cities that bring great surprises. One of them is Seydnaya, around 30 kilometres away from the capital, where the great attraction is orthodox convent Our Lady of Seydnaya, built on a hill in the middle of the 6th century a.d. The convent is still in operation and is home to around 50 nuns.
In a dark chapel, where you must take your shoes off before going in, as is the case with the Muslim mosques, there is a small niche in the wall with a painting of the Virgin Mary, made by St. Luke, according to local religious leaders. It is a place for the fulfilment of vows which, apart from the items of the convent, contains ex-votos left by the faithful.
*Translated by Mark Ament
