São Paulo – Not many people know it, but Syria, Lebanon, Morocco, Tunisia and Jordan are some Arab wine-producing countries. The area dedicated to the cultivation of grapes for wine is small when compared with those of the global icons of the sector, but those who have tasted them claim that product quality matches that of the finest in the world.
If the Middle Eastern and North African countries haven’t got the best weather for planting grapes for wine, they at least offer small areas in which the varieties grown in the Old World may develop. Such is the case with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Blanc, Merlot, Shiraz and Granache.
The latter two are from the South of France, but adapt well to the high altitudes of the Bekaa Valley, in Lebanon, and the Atlas mountains, in Morocco. By the way, these countries already grow crops with varieties of local grapes, such as the Obaideh white grape, from Lebanon.
A consultant at importing company Zahil and a wine specialist, Jorge Lucki states that wines produced in the Arab countries – especially in Lebanon – have characteristics similar to those of French wines of the Bordeaux region. Aside from the Lebanese wine, the consultant has had the chance to taste Syrian and Jordanian products. "The Jordanian wine did not let me down. I believe the wines produced in the Arab countries are up there with your average Bordeaux wines," he says.
A sommelier for importing company Decanter, Guilherme Corrêa explains that Arab wines have features reminiscent of wines from other countries bathed by the Mediterranean Sea. "Generally speaking, wines from the Maghreb (Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia) and Lebanon are very Mediterranean, hot and with a very ripe, fruity taste, of moderate acidity, and are close to the wines from the Spanish Mid-South, Southern Italy and its islands," he says.
He adds that Arab wines in general boast aromas of compote of red or black fruit (such as dates), liquorice and tar. He claims, however, that each wine has its own characteristic. And he believes Egyptian wines may evolve. "I have also tasted the wines of Egypt’s most famed producer, but they seemed disharmonic, still lacking in technical knowledge, although they had typicality (personality)."
The wines produced in Morocco, Syria, Lebanon, Algeria, Egypt, Tunisia and Jordan are considered wines of the Old World, as are the European ones. Most of the producers, techniques and grapes come from Europe. The highlights among wine-producing countries in the New World include the United States, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Chile and Argentina. In spite of the European influence, Arab wines have their idiosyncrasies. According to Lucki, the altitude of grape farms in the Bekaa Valley, approximately 1,000 metres above sea level, is what allows wine to be produced in Lebanon. "Under these conditions, variations of temperature are important to the maturing of grapes," he says.
Not all Brazilian importers bring Arab wines to the country. Zahil imports from Lebanon Comte de M Château Kefraya for 225 reals (US$ 142, from 2001). At Mistral, another Lebanese wine, Château Musar Rouge 2003, starts at 152.47 reals (US$ 96). Decanter has expressed an intention of importing Arab wines.
Where to buy
Mistral
Site: www.mistral.com.br
Zahil
Site: www.vinhoszahil.com.br
*Translated by Gabriel Pomerancblum
