São Paulo – Restaurant Fenícia Express – Culinária Libanesa just opened on June 22 and is already winning over residents and frequenters of São Paulo’s Paraíso area. Sitting on Rafael de Barros street, halfway between Oswaldo Cruz square and avenue Alameda Santos, it serves traditional Arab dishes, including the flagship manouche, which resembles a large open sfiha, or an Arab pizza with lighter dough and typical spices.
“This recipe is widespread in every Arab country, especially Lebanon and Syria,” owner Roseane Mussi said. The manouche is available in six flavors: beef, tomato and onion; zaatar (Arab spice); white cheese and mozzarella; white cheese, mozzarella, tomato and oregano; cheese and basturma (Armenian-style cured beef); Manouche Fenícia (pictured above), with white cheese, arugula, sumac (Arab spice) and cherry tomato. Prices range from BRL18-BRL 23.
The sfihas and manakish (the plural of manouche) are roasted in an igloo-shaped, gas-fired stone oven that goes up to 300°C. The oven captures the attention of patrons and according to Mussi it sets the restaurant apart from the rest.
Shawarma, the traditional Arab cone sandwich, is another highlight on the menu. Options include beef, chicken, kofta, traditional falafel, and fish falafel – an in-house creation where the chickpea paste meets fish and shrimp. Shawarma dishes come with salad and/or fries and go for BRL 20-BRL 23.
(story continues after photo gallery)
Homespun dishes also include kibbeh labanieh (BRL 25.90), or fried kibbeh balls dipped into hot curd; potato kibbeh stuffed with endive and chickpea (BRL 6.50), for the vegetarian crowd; and fish kibbeh (BRL 6.90), which Lebanese Christians usually eat during Lent, the time between Carnival and Easter when people don’t eat red meat.
For dessert, besides the usual Arab puff pastries that Brazilians are acquainted with, the restaurant offers Kanafeh, a semolina-based pastry with special cheese that’s served hot with pistachio and sugar syrup. It’s only available from 10:30 am on Sundays, for BRL 10 apiece.
This is owners Roseane Mussi’s and Maroun Daccache’s second restaurant. Fenícia – Culinária Libanesa has been in business near 25 de Março Street for two and a half years now, with Garcindo Folego as a partner. Mussi has Lebanese grandparents, and Daccache is a Lebanon native who’s been in Brazil for eight years. They also work together providing consulting services in commodity exports.
“We wanted to bring a unique restaurant to São Paulo, and since our first place downtown has been successful, we decided to open a more compact one here in the Paraíso area, with a slimmer menu. If it works out, we plan on becoming a franchise,” said Mussi, who chose the neighborhood for its numerous Lebanese residents and the busy Avenida Paulista. The restaurant is open Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 10 pm and Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm.
Quick facts
Fenícia Express – Culinária Libanesa
Rua Rafael de Barros, 87 – Paraíso – São Paulo
Delivery (+55 11) 4561-4561
www.feniciacl.com.br
Translated by Gabriel Pomerancblum
