São Paulo – There are plenty of reasons for visiting Recife, the capital of Pernambuco. At first sight, the beaches, the Capibaribe River and the live colours of the landscape are the main attractions. Way beyond the official tourist circuit, however, the city of poet Manuel Bandeira holds treasures that only the locals use to enjoy. Next, ten reasons to visit the “Brazilian Venice” that do not necessarily figure in travel guides.
1. Restaurante Leite. Founded in 1882 by Manoel Leite, it is one of the oldest establishments still operating in Brazil. And the longevity factor is not even the main attraction here: in addition to the varied and tasty menu, including poultry, beef and seafood, Leite is set in one of the most charming areas of the city, the Centre. Not to mention the attention paid to the dishes, glasses and crystal cups, a care with the service that has been there ever since the house opened. Don’t leave without sinking your teeth into a “cartola pernambucana” (top hat from Pernambuco) for dessert. What is it? A dish made from fried banana and butter cheese (very widespread in the Brazilian Northeast) spiked with sugar and cinnamon.
2. Centre. Speaking of the area, the Centre deserves to be explored by foot, bridge by bridge, street by street, as the Recife natives do. Take the necessary care with your belongings (leave your watch and gold chains at the hotel, keep an eye on your purse or wallet) and set an afternoon aside just to walk around. Let the Capibaribe River be your guide and stroll through scenarios such as the Maurício de Nassau Bridge, one of the best known ones. If you have ever been to Venice, notice how Recife really is reminiscent of “La Serenissima.”
3. The bars that specialize in crab. The name on the façade will usually include the word “bar,” but these are establishments people can just have lunch or dinner at. There are many of them across town. One of the most traditional and dearest to the locals is Bar do Guaiamum Gigante (Giant Guaiamum Bar), in Parnamirim. You can fearlessly gorge on guaiamuns (a variety of crab), portions of garlic shrimp and crab shells as an entrée.
4. The strawberry and chocolate pie of pastry shop chain Sweet’s. With units in the main malls and at the airport, Sweet’s may seem like yet another fast food chain specializing in candy like so many others. But taste its strawberry and chocolate pie, with a touch of condensed milk in the stuffing, and then rethink your notions.
5. The people of Recife. Proud of their homeland, the natives of the capital of Pernambuco are always ready, willing and able to talk about the city, give tips and tell stories. You may abuse their congeniality.
6. The sculptures in every building. A municipal act dating from 1961 sets forth that every building with over 1,000 square metres of built area must point out, right from the plan, the place in which a sculpture or panel will be placed. Otherwise, no building permit is issued. As a result, Recife has come to resemble an open-air museum, a feature that no other Brazilian capital has.
7. The Carnival. No sound trucks (trios elétricos) on the coast of the Boa Viagem Beach. No following the most hyped up groups of the neighbouring city of Olinda. To enjoy the party like many locals do, move back and forth between the two cities at your will. One tip: spend the day in Olinda, enjoying the colours of the hills and its costume-clad partiers, and at night, watch one of the concerts and performances that the City Hall usually promotes at the Ground Zero, in the Centre.
8. The Ground Zero. The site where Recife began, by the way, is worth a visit with or without a party. A highlight is Parque das Esculturas de Brennand (Brennand’s Sculpture Park), a set of works by the fine artist Francisco Brennand, located on the ocean rocks, right in front of the Ground Zero. Another highlight is the floor of the square, adorned by the “Compass Rose,” signed by another Pernambuco native, Cícero Dias.
9. Brennand’s Workshop. You had better believe it: you will not get tired of the work of the sculptor, whose atelier, at the Várzea area, which is in fact a museum, operates at what formerly was ceramics factory São João da Várzea. The site houses over 2,000 items such as sculptures, panels and murals. A must. Not to mentioned that the artist himself is always around. He eventually discusses his work with visitors.
10. The Globo bakery chain. With units in neighbourhoods such as Boa Viagem, for instance, it offers delicacies such as freshly-baked bread, snacks in various sizes (such as coxinha, a chicken snack), cakes and pies. Nothing that you cannot find in the best bakeries in any other city, that is true, but here, as you draw near to the counter, you will be invited to sample the delicacies on display. Taste it all, this is how it works. Only then decide what you will take out to munch on later. If you want to find where the nearest Padaria Globo is, just ask for it at the hotel reception. Everyone knows them.
Service
Restaurante Leite
Telephone: (+55) (81) 3224-7977 and 3224-7519
http://www.restauranteleite.com.br
Bar do Guaiamum Gigante
Telephone: (+55) (81) 3441-1509
http://www.guaiamumgigante.com.br/index2.html
Sweet’s
http://www.sweets.com.br/
Brennand’s Workshop
Telephone: (+55) (81) 3271-2466
http://www.brennand.com.br/
Recife City Hall
http://www.recife.pe.gov.br/
Secretariat for Tourism of Pernambuco
http://www2.setur.pe.gov.br/web/setur
*Translated by Gabriel Pomerancblum
