Al Ain – The United Arab Emirates are known for its two large metropolises, Dubai and Abu Dhabi, with their futuristic buildings, luxury hotels, shopping centers and theme parks, but the country has more to offer. Al Ain, in the emirate of Abu Dhabi, is a destination well-suited to those seeking to come into closer contact with the country’s traditions and nature. The city, whose name means “The Source” in Arabic, grew around an oasis in the desert. It is the birthplace of sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, founder and first president of the Emirates, who died in 2004.
Al Ain is considered the cornerstone of local traditions, with its forts, historical buildings and museums. The site has been inhabited since the Stone Age, as revealed by archaeological sites dug in the region. Quite tree-laden for a place in the middle of the desert, with gardens and parks, Al Ain is also known as the “Garden City,” a result of sheikh Zayed’s passion for green, which was later also passed on to the capital Abu Dhabi.
Located approximately 120 kilometres away from Dubai and 160 kilometres from Abu Dhabi, set against the border with Oman, the city is easily reached by car or bus from the two metropolises. The road from Dubai is modern, wide and almost entirely a straight. A good tip is to rent a car, because the attractions are far apart. The daily rental fee for a Toyota Corolla is 250 dirhams (US$ 68), including insurance, toll booth fees and free mileage.Filling up the tank cost 67.03 dirham (R$ 36.25). That’s what it’s like in oil producer countries!
One of Al Ain’s high points (literally!) is the Jebel Hafit (Mount Hafit), in the outskirts. Standing at 1,240 metres, it is the tallest mountain in the emirate of Abu Dhabi and the second tallest in the country. The road to the top – incredibly windy, but safe and in mint condition – is an attraction in itself. Along the way, several belvederes offer great views of the city, the rocky formations and particularly the Rub’ Al Khali, or “Empty Quarter,” a vast tract of sand that covers this portion of the Arabian Peninsula. At the summit, sights aside, there is a snack bar, a grocery store, chemical bathrooms and even a Mercure hotel.
Back in the plains, downtown, one of the attractions is the Al Ain Oasis, a stopover for caravans in the past, now a date palm tree plantation site. The labyrinth of alleys that cut across the oasis can be travelled by car or on foot. It is worth noting that any outdoor venture in the Emirates, from mid-morning to late afternoon, can become a scorching experience. Bringing a cap, suntan and water is key. In the oasis, there is nothing but the date palm groves, the walls that separate them from the alleys, mosques, piped water fountains, and few people. It is worth a walk, but don’t get in too deep, because the landscape barely changes.
Smack next to the oasis lies the Al Ain Palace Museum, sheikh Zayed’s old house. Built in 1910, the complex is very well preserved. You can stroll across the well-manicured gardens, go into the private rooms – including the bedroom where the ruler used to sleep with his wife –, guest rooms and the “májlis” (meeting room), where the leader would receive guests and grant public hearings. Old photographs, newspaper cuttings, portraits of family members, decorative objects and household items round out the exhibit. A highlight is the Land Rover that the emir used to drive on his desert trips.
Another historical building worth seeing is the Al Jahili Fort, built in 1891, the birthplace of sheikh Zayed. In addition to being a fine construction, laden by a park where families have picnics and kids play football or cricket –the Emirates are home to huge Indian and Paki communities, who are lovers of the British sport –, one of its towers, shaped as superimposed circles, is the symbol of the city.
The site houses a permanent show on the British explorer Wilfred Thesiger, who crussed the Rub’ Al Khali several times in the 1940s. At the day and time when the ANBA reporter was there, however, the show had already closed. The building and the park, however, are worth the visit.
Desert ships
A visit to the city’s camel market is a must. Although the time of caravans is long past and the automobile has replaced animals as the means of transport, camels are closely linked to the lives of desert dwellers. Now, the ‘desert ships’ provide the milk, the meat, and run in highly popular races. In the Emirates, the word “cameldrome” would have a quite different meaning than it does in Brazil (where it means a market for street vendors known as camelôs).
The market is located inside a produce and livestock outlet that also sells other animals, such as goats and sheep, feed, seeds, and foodstuffs. The camels, however, attract the most visitor attention. Large, noisy, sort of clumsy, they stay in small corrals a are taken to a sort of paddock when potential buyers come by.
Prices vary a lot, according to a shepherd, from 3,000 to 4,000 dirhams (roughly US$ 800 to 1,000) when little, to up to 20,000 dirhams (US$ 5,400) full grown, and racing camels may fetch astronomical figures. The reporter did not double-check the figures with independent sources, so the shepherd’s word will have to do. As with every commercial transaction in the Arab world, though, bargaining is key.
The shepherds will invite to go in the corrals, touch the animals and take pictures, and they expect a tip in return. Don’t pay what you’re asked right away, offer less and pay what you think is fair, but don’t be too stingy. In the case of the reporter, the shepherd asked for 100 dirhams (US$ 27), and got 30 dirhams (US$ 8). If you want to take photographs of people, ask first. In this case, the “model” may also want a tip.
But Al Ain is not just about cultural, natural and picturesque attractions. It is also a modern city, with nearly half a million people, broad avenues and heavy traffic. For those who want to go shopping, there are plenty of public markets and shopping centers. The Al Ain Mall, for instance, is second to none in Dubai or Abu Dhabi, and is packed with the best-known local stores and several international ones, a supermarket, and food courts.
There is much more to be seen in the city, such as the Al Ain National Museum, which showcases typical local objects, such as jewels crafted by the Bedouins, and musical instruments, weapons and gifts received by sheikh Zayed throughout his life, as well as archaeological artefacts found in the vicinities; the Hili Archaeological Park, which houses ruins and tombs from the Bronze Agem, dated from 2,500 to 2,000 BC; the Wadi Adventures waterpark, with artificial rapids for rafting and a pool with waves for surfing; and the Al Ain Zoo, which is famous in the country. The ANBA reporter, however, did not go to these latter spots, because it cannot all be done in one day.
Before leaving, one tip is to buy a souvenir at local team Al Ain’s store, located next to its stadium. An official t-shirt costs 150 dirhams (US$ 40).
Service
Car rental in Dubai
City Way Car Rental
Tel.: +971 50 552-5582
Cel.: +971 4 336-6612
Fax: +971 4 336-6610
Email: citywaycars@yahoo.com
The daily rate for an average sedan such as the Corolla or Honda Civic, is 200 dirhams, plus 50 dirhams in toll booth fees. The company has smaller and bigger models.
Bus
Company Al-Ghazal offers hourly buses from Dubai to Al Ain, starting at 6:30 am, leaving from Al-Ghubaiba Station, next to the Carrefour supermarket, in the Shindagha area, in Bur Dubai, Downtown. The nearest metro station goes by the same name, Al-Ghubaiba, and is a aprt of the green line.
If you prefer to take a taxi, agree on a price with the driver first, and be clear and specific about the services to be provided and their duration.
Al Ain Oasis
Tel.: +971 3 763 0155
If you’re visiting in the late afternoon, ask the guard at the entrance at what time the gates will close.
Al Ain Palace Museum
Tel.: +971 3 751 7755
Open from Tuesdays to Thursdays and on Saturdays and Sundays from 8:30 am to 7:30 pm, and on Fridays from 3:00 pm to 7:30 pm. Closed on Mondays.
Admittance is free.
Al Jahili Fort
Tel.: +971 3 784 3996
Open from Tuesdays to Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm, and on Fridays from 3:00 pm to 5:00 pm. Closed on Mondays.
Camel Market
Located behind the Bawadi Mall.
Opens at 7:00 am and closes at sunset.
Al Ain Mall
Tel.: +971 3 766-0333
Website: www.alainmall.net
Additional information
Visit Abu Dhabi
Website: http://visitabudhabi.ae
*Translated by Gabriel Pomerancblum
