Tripoli – Emperor Septimus Severus, who ruled Rome from 193 to 211 AD, was born in 145 AD in Leptis Magna, located on the coast of what is now Libya. Founded in the 7th century BC by the Phoenicians, the city was the region’s largest Roman territory at the time of Severus and, under his reign, it reached its peak when targeted by a large construction program.
Many of those buildings, as well as others that preceded and followed, can still be visited in Libya nowadays. Considered to be among the best preserved Roman ruins in the Mediterranean, they lie approximately 120 kilometres to the southeast of Tripoli, the country’s capital, and the trip can be made easily by car.
To those that already know Rome, the Leptis Magna is awe-inspiring nonetheless. Even though large buildings such as the Coliseum and the Pantheon are well preserved, the Italian capital has been constantly inhabited since the time of the Caesars. Buildings were erected above other buildings, and material from old edifications was used in the construction of new ones.
A good example is the Basilica of San Clemente, located near the Coliseum, in Rome. Excavations below the 12th century church uncovered an even older church, dating from the 4th century, which in turn was built over a 2nd century temple dedicated to the Persian god Mithra, and over a Roman 1st century house. Underneath it all there are signs dating back to the times of the Roman Republic, prior to the Empire. And excavations are still underway.
The same does not hold true of the Libyan coastal city. In the centuries that followed the reign of Septimus Severus, according to information from Encyclopaedia Britannica, Leptis Magna started its downfall and, after the Arabs conquered North Africa, in the 7th century AD, the city was left abandoned and was no longer inhabited. That ensured the preservation not only of the Roman buildings, but also of vestiges of other civilisations that occupied the region, such as the Carthaginians and the Numidians.
The trip to the city can either be arranged at the reception of hotels in Tripoli or negotiated directly with a taxi driver. It is best to leave early and set a price that includes the round trip plus waiting time. A quick tour of the site takes approximately two hours, but those more attentive to detail might want to spend the day.
At the park’s entrance there are small snack bars and souvenir shops, good for buying water or soft drinks, but not a full meal. It is advisable to bring along a cap and sunglasses for protection from sunlight. The entrance costs 6 Libyan dinars, or US$ 4.80.
Some of the structures deserve special mention, such as the Arch of Septimus Severus, right at the entrance, a building with four arched gateways, reliefs, and a good option for escaping the sun. Visited by few tourists, it is the meeting point for the park’s guards.
There are also the Baths of Hadrian, featuring near-intact marble latrines that were used in Imperial times; the market; the Forum and the Basilica, which, although roofless, still retain their walls and many of the original reliefs and inscriptions. Some of the Basilica’s columns feature detailed carvings portraying the life of god Dionysus and the Twelve Labours of Hercules.
The most impressive building, however, is the finely preserved amphitheatre, which, even today, might host some pop star concert. The breathtaking view looking down on the stage from atop the benches, with the Mediterranean in the background, is in itself worth the visit.
Leptis Magna is part of the region formerly known as Tripolitania, which comprises the city in which the modern-day Tripoli now stands, and Sabratha, another Roman territory located further to the northwest. In Tripoli, Roman ruins can be seen as well. Inside the medina, the city’s historic centre, there is the Arch of Marcus Aurelius, built over 1,800 years ago.
Arab market
The medina is the place for those willing to visit a “souk”, i.e., a traditional Arab market. Past the walls of the ancient city, starting at the Green Square, which is Tripoli’s central region and meeting point, the market sprawls across alleys and the stores are located in low-rise buildings painted white. This is the place to buy typical handicraft.
The most interesting site in the medina, at least for tourists, is this region that surrounds the Green Square. Walking further into the area, the buildings are more run down and the trade consists of variety stores that sell shoes, clothing, cigarettes, used parabolic antennae, and even hair care products.
A curious aspect of the Tripoli “souk” is that the bargaining culture is not as widespread as in other Arab cities with much greater tourist inflows. Depending on the merchant, the price of goods cannot be negotiated, period.
Libya, by the way, has some features that set it apart from other more tourism-intensive Arab countries that have been open to the global economy for longer. First off, it is more rare to run across people who speak any language other than Arabic, and the signs and boards in the streets and even at the airport seldom include other languages. The leader Muammar al-Gaddafi is a constant presence on the billboards.
The world-class hotels are few, so fees at the existing ones are quite high. Taxi drivers, with few exceptions, do not seem interested in overcharging visitors to take advantage. The cars do not have taximeters, and a fixed price is usually charged for a given distance. The cost, however, is subject to negotiation.
The beaches are beautiful and the coastline is long. In Tripoli, where beaches are crowded, going to the beach is a family pastime that usually involves a picnic. Libya is a conservative country. Therefore, even though wearing a certain type of garment is not mandatory, it is best to opt for something more discrete. Consumption of alcoholic beverages is forbidden in the country. There is only non-alcohol beer available.
*Translated by Gabriel Pomerancblum
