São Paulo – Lebanese Ahmad Merhi, 55, found in Brazil the possibility of continuing in business away from his homeland. Owner of a small beverage factory in Lebanon, he moved from the Arab country 17 years ago, making Brazil his refuge and gastronomy the source of income he needed.
Merhi fled the war in Lebanon in 2006. “I tried to take refuge in Europe, but I couldn’t. When I asked to come live here, my request was quickly accepted. Since I arrived, I have been treated very well. Brazilians respect refugees and foreigners. In Europe, this doesn’t happen. They don’t respect us there.”
Before the war, the Lebanese had a beverage factory. But when the conflicts started, the plant was blown up, and he lost his source of income. Therefore, coming to Brazil, in addition to being an opportunity to start a new life, also proved to be an opportunity to work again.
“When I arrived, it was very difficult – I came alone, without money and without knowing how to speak Portuguese. It took me months to get my first job in a bar, where I made juices, and I only learned to speak and understand Portuguese after about four years. When I saved a little money, I opened a restaurant in 2011.”
The idea of having a restaurant came after observing how the Brazilian public enjoyed Arab cuisine. After 12 years of working with food, the Lebanese changed the restaurant’s address a few times but always remained in the São Paulo city center. Currently, it serves consumers from Monday to Saturday on Avenida São João.
“Ever since I moved here to Brazil, I have made many friends. I like everything about this country except the violence. In the city center, for example, where I work and live, there are many robberies, which ends up scaring my customers,” said the Lebanese.
Among the restaurant’s most popular dishes are lamb and beef. The entrepreneur also sells kafta, raw and baked kibbeh, falafel, sfihas, mezze, and Arabic sweets, such as pistachio bird’s nests and baklava with pistachios. Kafta, kibbeh, and falafel come with curd, hummus, and tabbouleh sides.
Despite being Lebanese, Mehri decided to name his establishment Restaurante Syria due to the popularity of the other Arab country among Brazilians. “Here, Syria is a household name. They know Syrian sweets, Syrian seasoning, for example,” explained Merhi.
Even though he misses his wife and children, Merhi does not think about returning to Lebanon because of the conflicts taking place in the region.
*Special report by Rebecca Vettore for ANBA.
Translated by Elúsio Brasileiro
