São Paulo – Brazil is a young country, with little over 500 years, much less than the great nations of Europe, the Middle East and Asia, but also has history to tell. And an important part may be found on Royal Road, a historic and ecological route that crosses a large part of the state of Minas Gerais.
The road itself was built in the 17th Century, when Brazil was a colony of Portugal, and it originally connected Villa Rica, currently Ouro Preto, to the city of Paraty. It was the time of the Gold Cycle, which covered a large part of the 18th Century. The metal was mined in the interior of the Gerais and was transported to the coast for shipment to Europe.
Later, when diamond mines started being explored in the North, the road was expanded to Arraial do Tejuco, currently named Diamantina, and, to the south, a branch was added to the city of Rio de Janeiro.
One of the marvels of the route is Tiradentes, a small city renamed to honour one of its most illustrious offspring, Joaquim José da Silva Xavier, the Martyr of the Inconfidência, an independence movement that began in Minas Gerais. Tiradentes (Tooth-Puller) was a dentist and gained his nickname due to his profession.
The alleys, churches, public buildings and colonial houses in good repair are the main attractions of the urban area of the city, which may be visited on foot in two days. But there is much more. Gastronomy is the strongpoint and aligns traditional food from Minas to fancier options.
Around the city, tracks, mountains and waterfalls are the joy of those who love nature, enjoy taking long walks or going horse-riding. For shopping, go to Bichinho, a district of Tiradentes that is filled with handicraft workshops and stores.
There is also a restored steam train that travels to the municipality of São João Del Rei. It is worth the ride. At the destination, the highlight is the Church of São Francisco de Assis (Saint Francis of Assisi), which is particularly beautiful under the night lighting, and the adjacent cemetery, where the former Brazilian president Tancredo Neves is buried along with his wife, Risoleta.
From there, one suggestion is heading to Ouro Preto, but not without stopping at Congonhas do Campo to see the works of master Aleijadinho at the Sanctuary of Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos. There are his famous sculptures of the prophets, in stone, and of the stages of the Passion of Christ, in wood. All are life-sized.
In Ouro Preto, it is worth staying a few days to explore the city well, its slopes, winding alleys, colonial villas, countless churches and Brazilian baroque works of art. This is one of those places in which walking aimlessly, just looking at the landscapes and monuments, is a good idea. The church of São Francisco de Assis, designed by Aleijadinho and featuring paintings by Mestre Ataíde, is one of the main attractions of the city.
The works of these two artists are spread throughout the municipality and the neighbouring Mariana, which also features fine examples of colonial architecture. These two cities harbour many mines of the Gold Cycle, some of which can be visited, and there are mining sites in the region that are still active, but now the search is for precious stones such as the topaz.
Leaving Ouro Preto and before heading to Belo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Geraiis, a good idea, or better yet a must, is stopping by at the Caraça. A private natural reserve, it used to house a religious school up until the end of the 1960s, when a fire destroyed the school. The old student quarters are now a lodge.
It is not a place for those who wish to party, but rather for those who love nature and peace. During the day, the best thing to do is walk around the park’s various tracks. But pay attention not to miss the meals, served at the canteen in the main building complex. The schedule is strictly adhered to.
At night, in front of the gothic-style church, which stands out amidst the other buildings, the priests lay meat leftovers outside to attract maned wolves. And they come out to eat, but the people must keep silent in order not to scare the animals away.
On your way to Belo Horizonte, stop by in Sabará, in the vicinities of the capital, to visit the Church of Nossa Senhora do Ó, small and simple on the outside, but impressive on the inside with its gold-laden decoration, including details that reveal an influence from… China!
In Belo Horizonte, pause for modern architecture at the buildings designed by Oscar Niemeyer around Lagoa da Pampulha (Pampulha Lake). The capital is also known for the wealth of bars and their snacks, which some call “low cuisine,” but which are delicious.
Further North, Diamantina holds another piece of Brazilian history and even a little bit of Arab influence, such as in its muxarabiês (wood lattice). It is the land of Xica da Silva, the freed slave who became famous, and of Juscelino Kubitschek, one of the most popular presidents of Brazil. The city is also known for its music recitals and serenades.
On your way back, in case you are driving and your car is not very sensitive, one idea is to exit the roads and opt for the dirt roads that cut through villages such as Milho Verde and small cities, from Serro, known for its cheese, to Serra do Cipó (the Cipó Mountain Range), a place of dazzling landscapes. And being in Minas, don’t forget: cheese bread, always!
*Translated by Mark Ament & Gabriel Pomerancblum
